Bourbon and Rye Tasting @ Black Diamond Liquors

The nice guys over at Black Diamond Liquor store in Eagan, MN recently hosted a bourbon tasting along with Melissa Thompson of Vinocopia . Melissa brought us eight selections (see below) ranging from the more well-established to lesser known labels. Four Roses is, of course, a well known brand and Jefferson is gaining popularity for their openness and barreling/blending experimentation. I was not familiar with Prichards in the least, but the prospect of a "Double Chocolate Bourbon" added some intrigue to the anticipation, if only to provide me the chance at rebuking yet another flavored whiskey.

Anyway, this lineup was enticing as all of these bottles held great potential, but none were currently on my short list of "Must Buys," and therefore offered a good opportunity to do some exploring. My fellow imbibers consisted mostly of middle-aged women and a couple pairings of late 20-somethings. I would estimate most were at a beginner to experienced-dabbler level of whiskey drinker. The women seemed to be wine cross-overs and to further confirm my suspicion, Melissa started us out with a surprise Pinot Grigio that she thought some members would like. This was a crowd pleaser (free booze!). Once we got into the whiskey, we were treated to both a fine detailed pitch for each selection as well as some entertaining anecdotes per each producer. I attempted to jot down quick notes for each selection, but as you will see, this proved to be impossible. I will, however, share a few thoughts.

Four Roses Yellow Label Bourbon (A Mixing Whiskey!)

For many, this is a great introduction to bourbon, but for a good many others, probably a waste of time. We were informed that this was blended from ten different Four Roses bourbon recipes, but obviously blended to the least common denominator. But that is ok, it serves its purpose. I wrote descriptors like ash, weeds, wet stone and sandpaper.

Jefferson Very Small Batch Bourbon (Raised eyebrows)

This was quite an unexpected surprise and very different from the bourbons in this line up as well as others I have had recently. While indeed light, I initially noted an aroma of dark fruits, grape, though a bit musty, bubble gum.... Ultimately, it was the subtle resemblance to a young Ichiro's that induced momentary reverie.

Jefferson VSB Reserve Bourbon (Shrug, Quality)

This bourbon was much more in line with a number of others I've had recently. Solidly grassy/grainy sweet balanced with earthenware qualities, (I could have been in a pottery shop!) The greater age of this bourbon at 12-15 years produced a wonderfully long and pleasant finish, by far the best feature of this whiskey.

Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon (See Above)

If the Jefferson had more of that grassy sweetness, this bourbon was much more confectionery with notes of butterscotch and sheetcakes, but also a freshness that evoked an image of rushing forest streams. A confluence of four bourbon recipes, this works well to produce a great balance and glossy mouth feel. Solid choice.

Everything Else!

By the fourth sample, the pace of liquor flow had started to pick up and I decided it would be better to set my pen down and enjoy the wee tipples rather than get too distraught about analyzing. Therefore, I will keep my comments to a minimum and only say that I have yet to be impressed with the Four Roses Single Barrel. For me, the Four Roses Small Batch and its blending of four recipes rather than one just works better. Finally, I cannot ignore the Prichards Double Chocolate Bourbon whiskey. While it was certainly interesting to sip a whiskey that wasn't the same old vanilla story, I don't think it belongs in the same price category as a Blanton's Single Barrel or Woodford Reserve Double Barrel.

Anyway, the take-aways for me are as follows:

#1 Jefferson Very Small Batch Bourbon

&

#2 Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon

Dram Match: Special Dessert Edition

私も他国の食に興味を持ち、色んな国の料理に挑戦したりレストランを調べ行ってみたりしている。その中でも私が最も好きなフランスのお菓子"カヌレ"を紹介したい。正式名称は、"cannelé de Bordeaux(カヌレ・ド・ボルドー)"。ラム酒を贅沢に使ったスイーツで外はカリカリ、中はフワフワなのが理想的。

「ドラム・クラフト」の投稿者とスイーツ通として、今までのドラム・マッチをデザートをもとにして変化しようとしました。したがって、2種類の異なった小規模製造者のラム酒を選択しました。

1つ目

"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"のDARK RUM(ダーク ラム)。アイオワ州の蒸留所で作られ特長は、焦がしたオークの樽で熟成されたラム酒で、香り高く甘い花畑にいるようねイメージ。飲みやすい。余韻は長く、でもしつこくない。

2つ目

"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"のMAELSTROM RUM(メルストロム ラム)。ミネソタ州の蒸留所で作られ特長は、さとうきび糖のみ輸入で後は全てミネソタ州で集めたこだわりの材料だけ使った樽詰めしないでそのまま瓶詰めされたラム酒で、ラム酒と言うより香りも味もGINに近く、ほろ甘い少し癖のある香りがする。飲んだ時もまるでGINの様で、これでジントニックを作ってみたらとても美味しかった。余韻は長く、草原にいるようなイメージ。

カヌレの他の材料は、全く同じ。ラム酒が違うだけで、味はかなり変わってくるかという疑問を解こうとした。そのため、先日行った、ホームパーティーにて試食してもらい、どちらがお好みか聞いてみた。試食してもらった所、圧倒的に2つ目の"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"の方が人気だった。しかし、私は、大きなミスをしてしまった！時間の都合上、1つ目、"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"を使用したカヌレは、パーティー2日前に焼き、2つ目、"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"を使用したカヌレは、パーティー当日に焼いた。ここで明らかに大きな差がついたようだ。 カヌレの特長は、前にも説明したように、外はカリカリ、中はフワフワなのが理想的。パーティー2日前に焼いた"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"を使用したカヌレは、表面が水分を含みカリカリ感が失われ、食感に大きな差がついてしまったようだ。

したがって、"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"が勝ったということを認識しなければいけない。同時に今回のドラム・マッチは至当ではなかったことも認識した。だから、もう一度実験をやり直さなければならなかった。小規模で（私とPaul Owenだけ）がもう一度同じ日に2種類のラム酒で作ったカヌレを比較しました。自分の意見では"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"のDARK RUM(ダーク ラム)の方が美味しかったです。風味が強くラム酒の味をしっかり感じることができた。

一人の意見なので意味がないかもしれない。お時間があれば試して欲しいのでレシピを載せます。

ラム酒は、ダークとライトの２種類使用して比較してみると良いと思います。

『作り方』

[材料] カヌレ12個分※カヌレ型だと大を使用した時の分量

材料	分量
薄力粉	80 g
コンスターチ	40 g
上白糖	250 g
牛乳	500 cc
バニラエッセンス	少々
バター	20 g
ラム酒	50 cc
全卵	2個
卵黄	2個
型に塗るマーガリン	適量

①大きめのボールに薄力粉とコンスターチの材料をふるい、上白糖を入れ均一になるまで良く混ぜる。

②全卵と卵黄を①に軽く混ぜ、溶かしバターと、ラム酒も①に混ぜ、粉っぽさがなくなるまで混ぜる。

③鍋に牛乳とバニラエッセンスを入れヘラで膜ができないようにしっかり混ぜる。60度位が理想的。指を2、3秒入れていられる位。

④一気に③を②に流し込み、生地が均一に滑らかになるまで混ぜる。

⑤④にラップをし、12時間〜1日冷蔵庫で休ませる。(長い方が中がモチモチになって美味しい。)

⑥オーブンを220度に予熱する。⑤を再度しっかり混ぜる。

⑦型にマーガリンを塗り、⑤を型へ均等に入れ、上段220度で20分、下段180度で45分焼く。(表面の焼き目が足りなかったら、更に5分下段180度で焼くと良い。)

⑧オーブンから出したら、すぐ型から抜く。 できあがり！！

皆さんも色々なラム酒で試してみて下さい。

Since I have an interest in food culture from around the world, I enjoy challenging myself by attempting to make various dishes as well as seeking out restaurants that are similarly oriented. Among the confections I have come across, my favorite is the French canelé. Traditionally known as "cannelé de Bordeaux,” it is an exquisite dessert made with rum that features a crisp outer surface yet maintains a soft, creamy center.

As a contributor to Dram Craft and lover of sweet treats, I decided it would be fun to base one of our comparative Dram Matches in dessert form! Therefore, two rums were chosen from two different small producers, each of which displayed different characteristics. They are as follows:

1. CEDAR RIDGE DARK RUM – Produced by the Iowa distillery and aged in charred oak barrels. This unspiced rum is very sweet with a floral aroma. An easy sipper with pleasant, yet slightly disinterested finish.

2. THE 11 WELLS’ MAELSTROM RUM – St.Paul, Minnesota distilled spirit made from imported dehydrated sugar cane juice. This is an unaged and unspiced rum that actually has a bite and aggressiveness that reminds me of gin and I am tempted to make some variation of a gin and tonic, perhaps with a splash of cranberry syrup. Finish is long and as if standing in a wild grassland.

Other than the rum, all other ingredients were kept the same. In order to answer the question, “does the difference in rum make much of a difference in taste of the canelé,” I recently surveyed a dinner party of eight guests following a hearty meal. Everyone overwhelmingly selected the THE 11 WELLS-made canelé. However, as this result was so slanted, I realized my mistake! Since the process of making these desserts takes two days, I had to prepare these batches in two shifts. Therefore the CEDAR RIDGE canelés had an extra day sitting out and were no match for the fresh 11 WELLS canelés made the day of the party.

So, I have to give the unofficial nod to 11 WELLS, though, in all fairness and much to my dismay, this was far from an equal competition. So, I had to try again and on a much smaller scale of tasters (me and Paul Owen), we personally preferred the CEDAR RIDGE Dark Rum-made canelé.

Take that for what it's worth, as both were delicious desserts I’d love for you to try at home, so I leave you my recipe:

Cannelé de Bordeaux (makes 12):

Ingredient	Amount
Wheat Flour	80 g
Corn Starch	40 g
White Sugar	250 g
Milk	500 cc
Vanilla Extract	A dash
Butter	20 g
Rum	50 g
Whole Egg	2
Egg Yolk	2
Margarine	Just enough

Batter:　In a large mixing bowl, mix evenly together the wheat flour, corn starch and white sugar.

Next, add both the whole eggs and egg yolks lightly mixing into the batter followed by the melted butter and rum until batter is smooth and no granular clumps remain.

In a separate small pot, mix in the milk and vanilla extract with the spatula so that no film remains while heating the mixture to 140 degrees.

As soon as this is ready, immediately pour quickly the milk and vanilla extract into the bowl containing the batter and mix in completely.

At this point, wrap the batter and refrigerate for 12-24 hours (the longer you refrigerate, the softer the inside of the canelé will be).

Baking:　Preheat oven to 430 degrees. Take the batter out from the refrigerator and once again mix thoroughly.

Grease the canelé vessels with a layer of margarine and pour evenly into each space. Place into the oven on the top rack for twenty minutes. Following this, move the canelé to the low rack and bake for an additional 45 minutes at 355 degrees. If after baking, the surface of the canelé is not yet dark brown, continue to bake on the low rack until achieving desired results.

After removing from the oven, extract the canelé from their molds and enjoy!!

I hope you all have fun experimenting with various types of rums!!