Tour of Keepsake Cidery

The good folks over at Keepsake cidery in Dundas, MN granted us special access to their property over the weekend to have a sneak peak at their progress. The Dram Craft crew included seven of us who could not have asked for a better day to spend time on an orchard farm sipping some well crafted cider.

Keepsake formed its roots (literally) in the spring of 2014 when they planted the first of what would become their current 2,400 apple trees. The trees include over 30 varieties that range from domestic and sweet to more bitter UK and French apples. Their trees are all high volume producing and are situated on a surprising 3 acres of land with plans to expand to about 3,200 trees on 7 acres. They additionally grow other types of fruits for special blends and experiments.

Owners Tracy and Nate spoke at length of numerous budding and blossoming relationships with other orchards, farms and spirit producers such as Loon Liquors with whom they have plans for future collaborations. This was fantastic to hear and further proof of the growth of craft culture in rural as well as urban communities. On the floor of their production facility, we saw a number of large crates of different apples "sweating" it out before their not-to-distant pressing. Keepsake is also employing some old world technologies such as the practice of maserating whereby the ground apples are left to marinate in angled vats prior to pressing.

Finally, entering the temperature controlled fermentation room at Keepsake, the spirit of experimentation was palpable as the room was filled with both large tanks, presumably fermenting juice for their flagship releases, as well as dozens of carboys containing specialized projects. Since the young orchards at Keepsake have yet to produce juice that has made it into a bottle of their currently available cider, Keepsake's crews have worked hard to source their first batches from other orchards. However, we were treated to a sampling of some of Keepsake's own wild fermented juice and we eagerly anticipate the finished, limited release product that will be due out in the coming year. Eventually Keepsake intends to release ciders that contain 80% juice from estate grown apples.

It was pleasing to hear Nate and Tracy speak of the exciting growth and collaboration going on at Keepsake and among others south of the Twin Cities area. However, as they reiterated multiple times throughout our visit, Keepsake intends to stay small and focus on doing one thing and doing it well. For all of us here at Dram Craft, that's something to which we can eagerly raise a glass. Cheers.

秩父蒸溜所での見学 ・ Visit to Chichibu Distillery

先週、秩父蒸溜場を見学する機会がありました。8年前、友人となった飛騨高山にあるセンター4ハンバーガーのオーナー、高中学さんの計画と肥土さんからの招待のおかげで秩父へ行ってきました。

Dram Craft was fortunate enough to have the opportunity to tour the Chichibu distillery this past week in Saitama prefecture, Japan. This was purely a visit for pleasure, but since the distillery is not currently open to the public, we thought there might be a fair amount of interest in this Chichibu eye candy.

最近秩父蒸溜場からのニュースは今現在秩父蒸溜場に1500樽熟成してる貯蔵庫とあわせて、羽生に新しい貯蔵庫ができました。

11人しかいないまだまだ小規模な蒸溜場なのに、この一年日本のウイスキーに対する要求が非常に増加した為、徐々に成長ができるベースができたでしょう。アメリカにとって、最近、中型マーケットに届いたイチローズモルトと、最近、肥土さんがプロモーションしに来たことを考えると、アメリカ人ファンは、手に入れることがこれからできるでしょう。

A few bits of news from Chichibu include the recent completion of an aging cellar located in Hanyu that now accompanies their first storehouse on site at Chichibu that is currently aging about 1,500 barrels. Hanyu was the site of Ichiro's family's original distillery which produced the whisky that comprised the famous playing card series whiskies.

At 11 employees, Chichibu distillery is still a very small operation, but with the recent (insane!?!?) demand for Japanese whisky, it is safe to say they will have stable growth well into the future. The good news for the U.S. is the recent arrival of a couple labels in mid-sized markets and Ichiro's recent promotional tours stateside. Even with high demand, it looks like he won't overlook us patient American fans.

Our tour was completed by a complimentary tasting session and a greeting by the man himself who graciously gave us quite a bit of time and photo opportunities. Our evening was completed by a visit to Chichibu's local Salvage　・ Te Airigh restaurant and bar at the recommendation of Ichiro. Upon arrival we were warned that food orders may take a little longer than usual, but we were ok with that as we had come to drink! But after two hours and only a couple of hors dourves, we began to wonder what was going on. However, eventually word leaked down that the party upstairs in the restaurant was Ichiro's birthday party at which point a collective "Ahhh" of understanding took place. You gotta love a town that cherishes its own. Happy Birthday Ichiro.

見学が終わったら試飲だけではなく、肥土さんと話しをしたり、一緒に写真を撮ったりすることもできました。最後に肥土さんがお勧めしてくれた秩父駅前にあるサルベージ・チェアリーで飲食をしました。着いた時にレストランの方に、食事を出すのに少し時間がかかるかもしれないと注意されました。二時間経っても二つの前菜しかでてこない状況に、皆がお互い目を合わせ、大丈夫かなーと心配になりました。でも結局のところ、上のレストラン・サルベージで肥土さんの誕生日パーティーが行われてるということを知り、「アッ、なーるほど」と皆がその状況を納得してしまいました。その町が地元の人を大事にしていることは、とてもいいことですよね。お誕生日おめでとう、肥土さん。

Ice Ice Baby!

The dog days of summer are upon us here in Minnesota. It's the perfect time to enjoy the shade with an ice cold refreshing drink. Whether on your own or in the company of others, one minor detail that goes a long way to elevating the experience is crystal clear ice. For some, the following may seem like an absurd length to go for frozen water, but ice will contribute to the temperature, aroma, taste and the overall look of your drink. For those paying attention, that is four of our five bodily senses that are crucial for enjoying a well made beverage. As far as I'm concerned, that cold summer beverage better have some damn fine ice.

Therefore, I'd like to share with you my home-made method for the ice I consume in my leisure time.

First, start with your choice of natural spring water gushing from some part of the earth near you or....your local supermarket.

Next, boil the hell out of it. The water will probably be fine, but this is a preventative measure to eliminate all impurities if present.
Find yourself a cooler like this Coleman and clean it. Pour in your precious water.

The next step is of great importance. The key thing is a slow freeze. Therefore, I place my cooler of water, with the top propped up a bit, in a freezer set at the mid-range temperature. This way my cooler will get cold enough, but it will drastically slow down the process. The open top will allow for airflow and adequate expansion.
After approximately forty-eight hours, you should have a gorgeous frozen block of (mostly) clear ice. Now comes the fun part. While it is certainly feasible to use molds, I enjoy the randomness of shape the results from simply applying a hammer and chisel. Leaving the block of ice out for a bit to melt and soften will certainly aid your cause.

When you've hacked away enough to produce a satisfactory amount of cubes, you'll be ready to enjoy a well-deserved dram of your daily sipper, all the while taking in the pleasure of watching a few crystal clear cubes dance around your glass.

Palate Cleanser

After one year on this journey to discover the brightest and best of the world of craft distilling, I am both overwhelmed by the challenge of sorting through the many new products available, while at the same time comforted to realize there is no reason to rush. Considering such trends in the whisky world of dropping age statements and exclusive bottlings, I am now much more willing to let a number of these releases pass. The burgeoning craft distilleries have young, promising whiskey, but young nonetheless.

Therefore, in order to slow things down, take my mind off of the task at hand, and to celebrate the arrival of summer, I am going to indulge it a bit of uncomplicated fruitiness. I call upon you, beaujolais to take my cares away and saturate me in some summery strawberry goodness. Santé!

クラフト蒸留の世界を理解する努力の中一年たち、たくさんの新しいウイスキーを試飲して評するのは大変なチャレンジである一方、慌しくテイスティングする必要がないと気づいた。最近、年齢も書いていないボトルや数量限定のリリースなどのウイスキーの世界における傾向を考えるとこうしたたくさんの商品を放してもいいと思っている。同時に、クラフト蒸留されたウイスキーには将来性があるが、まだまだ若いなぁと最近思っている。

従って、ゆっくり舌を休ませる為に休憩します。その上、ミネソタでは夏が到来し夏を向かうためにイチゴの味が強くするボジョレーを飲みながらこのサイトのチャレンジを少し忘れまあーーす。

Whiskey on Ice, Minneapolis, MN's First Whiskey Festival!!

Minnesota's first ever large scale whiskey festival was held this past Sunday, April 12th at the historic depot in downtown Minneapolis. There were sixty booths and nearly 100 labels sampling anywhere from a single whiskey to a half dozen. Bag pipers in traditional Scottish dress, catered appetizers and seminar classes were all pleasant features to a perfect venue in which to hold this inaugural event. Surly beer was even there with some barrel aged brews for a nice change of pace.

この前の日曜日、4月12日にミネソタ州では初めて大規模のウイスキー祭りが行われました。60ブースのテーブルの上に100ブランドが展示され、一つの蒸留所に対して一種類から六種類までのウイスキーがありました。スコットランドの伝統的な衣装を着てバグパイプを演奏している人や前菜、セミナー教室などの素敵なイベントもありました。最近人気があったミネアポリス市にあるSURLYというビール会社もいて3つの樽で熟成されたビールも提供していただきました。

Overall, we were pleased with the event. There was an even balance of scotch, American whiskey and world whisky. It was not over-sold and therefore, crowds were not a problem. We always had access to a booth and were able to speak to many brand representatives. I think it was a good idea to have it on a Sunday evening rather than earlier in the weekend, because not all pourers kept to the 10 mL limit and we saw at least one hapless fellow topple over onto a display.

全体として、この行事はよかったです。スコッチやアメリカのウイスキー、ワールドウイスキーなどのバランスがよかったです。行事のチケットもバランスよく売れ行列ができなかったです。そのテーブルでテイスティングしながらブランドの代表者とコミュニケーションをいつでも取ることができました。さらに、金曜日か土曜日ではなくて日曜日に行おうという戦略的な考えはよかったと思います。お酒を注ぐ人々は皆、10ミリリットルという限定を守ったわけではなく、飲みすぎて倒れる人もいました。

Among the snazzy brand manager suits and pretty blondes representing the bigger names, there were a few of the little guys to be found. We were happy to see local distillers like 11 Wells and Panther present. There were a number of producers in attendance with whiskies that we have featured here on Dram Craft such as Mississippi River, Hudson, High West and Westland. Murphy Quint of Cedar Ridge had a nice line up and was even kind enough to pull from under his table a sampling of a port finished single malt. We planted the seed for a Cedar Ridge distillery "special feature" this summer, so hopefully there will be many more of those bottles available for tasting.

大きな会社を代表しているセールスマンはおしゃれなスーツや金髪の髪をしている女性を起用している中、実際に作っているという知識がある小規模蒸留所のセールスマンは地味な人たちもいました。イレブン・ウェルズとパンサーという地元の蒸留所がいて嬉しかったです。ミシシッピ・リバーやハドソン、ハイ・ウエスト、ウエストランドというこのドラム・クラフトでテイスティングしたブランドもたくさんいました。シダー・リッジのマーフィークイントが美味しいサンプルを準備していて、テーブルの下から出したポートでフィニッシュされたシングルモルトも飲むこともできました。今年の夏に蒸留所を紹介するために予定も作ってそのシングルモルトのようなボトルが試飲できるといいですね！

Our friend Carson Panther of Panther Distillery was in attendance. He had their full line up for tasting with the exception of the new Saint Paul Rye which had been featured in the previewed list of whiskies, but unfortunately was not yet ready. He also had a little experiment that we will get the chance to talk about further when Dram Craft makes its first special feature distillery visit in the coming weeks. Stay tuned!

友達カーソンパンサーもいて、パンサー蒸留所で作っているウイスキーの中、セントポール・ライ以外全部を持ってきてくれました。セントポール・ライは宣伝広告に書いてあったがまだ出来ていないみたいです。彼は小さな実験をこのイベントで見せてくれたがそれについては次回パンサー蒸留所へ行って来てからもっと詳しく説明します。

Because of our special Japanese connection here at Dram Craft, we took a slight detour from the craft distillers and indulged in the major expressions from both Nikka and Suntory that were available for tasting. It appears the no age statement (NAS) black label Taketsuru Pure Malt blend will be soon replacing the 12 year old. This has already happened in Japan and if they keep the price point the same here in the U.S. ($50-$60), I would avoid it. Beam Suntory also confirmed that the Hibiki "Japanese Harmony" will be moving in as they phase out the Hibiki 12 year old. For fans of this whisky, we recommend stocking up while you still can.

そして、ドラム・クラフトは特別な日本との繋がりがあるので小規模蒸留所を離れて、ニッカとサントリーが持ってきたウイスキーもエンジョイしてきました。今までみたいに簡単に竹鶴12年が買える日が無くなるみたいで、黒いラベルの竹鶴をアメリカでは初めて見ました。もちろん日本で一年以上前にこのラベレは発売されたが、アメリカではあまり人気がなく高い値段（約$50）でお店に置いてあります。ビーム・サントリーは響12年が響ジャパニーズハーモニーというラベルに変わることを認めました。私は両方がなかった時代を覚えていて、まだ17年は鉱物なのであまり私には関係がないことですが、こんな年齢が書いていない（NAS）という傾向はちょっと悲しいと思います。

最後に嬉しいことを言うから、これからドラム・クラフトで紹介するウイスキーは下に書いてあります：

Thanks to the wide range of sampling, here are some whiskies that we definitely will feature in upcoming Dram Matches include:

Hudson Single Malt, Westland Sherry, 11 Wells, Amrut Peated, Bastille French Whisky, Buffalo Trace, Compass Box, FEW Bourbon Single Barrel, Kavalan Sherry, Panther Pike Street Bourbon etc.

Looking forward to next year!

また来年！

Dram Match #8 American Single Malts!

Cedar Ridge Single Malt
vs.
Westland Single Malt

ポールのシダーリッジ　・　Paul Owen's Cedar Ridge

香： 熟したバナナ、すし酢、レモンドーナツ、石鹸の店、イースターエッグのキャンディー。

味：　口の中柔らかい、酵母、すっぱい、オールスパイス、病院の部屋　（香りのほうが満足できる）。

余韻：　甘みが残る、若気の香り。

Nose:　Ripe banana, sushi rice vinegar, lemon donut cream filling, soap shop, pastel/Easter egg candies.

Palate:　Soft mouth feel, yeast-sour, allspice, medical examination room, flat (much more satisfying nose).

Finish: Saccharine quality lingers briefly. Youthful femininity.

タンポポのシダーリッジ　・　Tanpopo's Cedar Ridge

香：　バナナ、エステル、シナモン、雪玉のケーキ、水彩絵具、子供よう消しゴム、杉。

味：　バルサの木、焦がしたニンニク、冷たい沢、80年代に使った咳の薬、キュウリ、ホワイトペッパー、まだ弾けていないポップコーン。

余韻：　薫香、オレンジの中果皮、カイエンペッパー、カボチャの種、キャステル石鹸、レモンクッキーと一緒に食べたほうがいい！

Nose:　Banana, esters, cinnamon, Hostess snowball frosting, watercolor paints, cute erasers, cedar.

Palate:　Balsa wood, burnt garlic, cold swamp, 1980s Robitussin, slight cucumber, white pepper, unpopped popcorn.

Finish:　Incense smoke, orange pith, cayenne pepper, pumpkin seed, castile soap. Recommend with lemon cookies!

　　ポールのウエストランド　・　Paul Owen's Westland

香：　サイダー、樹皮、オークのよう、ももの缶、サフラン、オレンジビター。

味：　口の中はいい感じ、ミンクオイル、ラズベリー、シナモン、香りからのオレンジビター（また、香りのほうがよかった）。

余韻：　ダークチョコ、花屋、まだ若いのに大人っぽい味が少し残る。

Nose:　Cider, buttoned up, tree bark, oak influence, peach can, saffron, orange bitters, tropical fruit Starburst.

Palate:　Good mouth feel, double boom effect, mink oil, Raspberry, Cinnamon, orange bitters from the nose (again, a much more satisfying nose)

Finish:　Dark chocolate, Florist shop. A mature femininity in spite of obvious youth.

　タンポポのウエストランド　・　Tanpopo's Westland

香：　調理後のブルーベリー、苦いオレンジ、リノリウム、焼いてないパンの生地、新しいスポンジ、羊の皮。

味：　ユリの花、一日たったコーヒー、紙、黒ウォールナット、デイジーの花、誘惑的。

余韻：　樹皮、花粉、男らしい、皮。

Nose:　Cooked blueberies, bitter orange, linoleum, uncooked dough, new sponge, sheepskin.

Palate:　Day lilies, day-old coffee, paper, black walnut, daisies, more to explore...

Finish:　Bark, flower pollen, masculine, leather.

VERDICT 結果

Bourbon and Rye Tasting @ Black Diamond Liquors

The nice guys over at Black Diamond Liquor store in Eagan, MN recently hosted a bourbon tasting along with Melissa Thompson of Vinocopia . Melissa brought us eight selections (see below) ranging from the more well-established to lesser known labels. Four Roses is, of course, a well known brand and Jefferson is gaining popularity for their openness and barreling/blending experimentation. I was not familiar with Prichards in the least, but the prospect of a "Double Chocolate Bourbon" added some intrigue to the anticipation, if only to provide me the chance at rebuking yet another flavored whiskey.

Anyway, this lineup was enticing as all of these bottles held great potential, but none were currently on my short list of "Must Buys," and therefore offered a good opportunity to do some exploring. My fellow imbibers consisted mostly of middle-aged women and a couple pairings of late 20-somethings. I would estimate most were at a beginner to experienced-dabbler level of whiskey drinker. The women seemed to be wine cross-overs and to further confirm my suspicion, Melissa started us out with a surprise Pinot Grigio that she thought some members would like. This was a crowd pleaser (free booze!). Once we got into the whiskey, we were treated to both a fine detailed pitch for each selection as well as some entertaining anecdotes per each producer. I attempted to jot down quick notes for each selection, but as you will see, this proved to be impossible. I will, however, share a few thoughts.

Four Roses Yellow Label Bourbon (A Mixing Whiskey!)

For many, this is a great introduction to bourbon, but for a good many others, probably a waste of time. We were informed that this was blended from ten different Four Roses bourbon recipes, but obviously blended to the least common denominator. But that is ok, it serves its purpose. I wrote descriptors like ash, weeds, wet stone and sandpaper.

Jefferson Very Small Batch Bourbon (Raised eyebrows)

This was quite an unexpected surprise and very different from the bourbons in this line up as well as others I have had recently. While indeed light, I initially noted an aroma of dark fruits, grape, though a bit musty, bubble gum.... Ultimately, it was the subtle resemblance to a young Ichiro's that induced momentary reverie.

Jefferson VSB Reserve Bourbon (Shrug, Quality)

This bourbon was much more in line with a number of others I've had recently. Solidly grassy/grainy sweet balanced with earthenware qualities, (I could have been in a pottery shop!) The greater age of this bourbon at 12-15 years produced a wonderfully long and pleasant finish, by far the best feature of this whiskey.

Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon (See Above)

If the Jefferson had more of that grassy sweetness, this bourbon was much more confectionery with notes of butterscotch and sheetcakes, but also a freshness that evoked an image of rushing forest streams. A confluence of four bourbon recipes, this works well to produce a great balance and glossy mouth feel. Solid choice.

Everything Else!

By the fourth sample, the pace of liquor flow had started to pick up and I decided it would be better to set my pen down and enjoy the wee tipples rather than get too distraught about analyzing. Therefore, I will keep my comments to a minimum and only say that I have yet to be impressed with the Four Roses Single Barrel. For me, the Four Roses Small Batch and its blending of four recipes rather than one just works better. Finally, I cannot ignore the Prichards Double Chocolate Bourbon whiskey. While it was certainly interesting to sip a whiskey that wasn't the same old vanilla story, I don't think it belongs in the same price category as a Blanton's Single Barrel or Woodford Reserve Double Barrel.

Anyway, the take-aways for me are as follows:

#1 Jefferson Very Small Batch Bourbon

&

#2 Four Roses Small Batch Bourbon

Dram Match: Special Dessert Edition

私も他国の食に興味を持ち、色んな国の料理に挑戦したりレストランを調べ行ってみたりしている。その中でも私が最も好きなフランスのお菓子"カヌレ"を紹介したい。正式名称は、"cannelé de Bordeaux(カヌレ・ド・ボルドー)"。ラム酒を贅沢に使ったスイーツで外はカリカリ、中はフワフワなのが理想的。

「ドラム・クラフト」の投稿者とスイーツ通として、今までのドラム・マッチをデザートをもとにして変化しようとしました。したがって、2種類の異なった小規模製造者のラム酒を選択しました。

1つ目

"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"のDARK RUM(ダーク ラム)。アイオワ州の蒸留所で作られ特長は、焦がしたオークの樽で熟成されたラム酒で、香り高く甘い花畑にいるようねイメージ。飲みやすい。余韻は長く、でもしつこくない。

2つ目

"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"のMAELSTROM RUM(メルストロム ラム)。ミネソタ州の蒸留所で作られ特長は、さとうきび糖のみ輸入で後は全てミネソタ州で集めたこだわりの材料だけ使った樽詰めしないでそのまま瓶詰めされたラム酒で、ラム酒と言うより香りも味もGINに近く、ほろ甘い少し癖のある香りがする。飲んだ時もまるでGINの様で、これでジントニックを作ってみたらとても美味しかった。余韻は長く、草原にいるようなイメージ。

カヌレの他の材料は、全く同じ。ラム酒が違うだけで、味はかなり変わってくるかという疑問を解こうとした。そのため、先日行った、ホームパーティーにて試食してもらい、どちらがお好みか聞いてみた。試食してもらった所、圧倒的に2つ目の"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"の方が人気だった。しかし、私は、大きなミスをしてしまった！時間の都合上、1つ目、"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"を使用したカヌレは、パーティー2日前に焼き、2つ目、"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"を使用したカヌレは、パーティー当日に焼いた。ここで明らかに大きな差がついたようだ。 カヌレの特長は、前にも説明したように、外はカリカリ、中はフワフワなのが理想的。パーティー2日前に焼いた"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"を使用したカヌレは、表面が水分を含みカリカリ感が失われ、食感に大きな差がついてしまったようだ。

したがって、"THE 11 WELLS(ザ イレブン ウェルズ)"が勝ったということを認識しなければいけない。同時に今回のドラム・マッチは至当ではなかったことも認識した。だから、もう一度実験をやり直さなければならなかった。小規模で（私とPaul Owenだけ）がもう一度同じ日に2種類のラム酒で作ったカヌレを比較しました。自分の意見では"CEDAR RIDGE(シダー リッジ)"のDARK RUM(ダーク ラム)の方が美味しかったです。風味が強くラム酒の味をしっかり感じることができた。

一人の意見なので意味がないかもしれない。お時間があれば試して欲しいのでレシピを載せます。

ラム酒は、ダークとライトの２種類使用して比較してみると良いと思います。

『作り方』

[材料] カヌレ12個分※カヌレ型だと大を使用した時の分量

材料	分量
薄力粉	80 g
コンスターチ	40 g
上白糖	250 g
牛乳	500 cc
バニラエッセンス	少々
バター	20 g
ラム酒	50 cc
全卵	2個
卵黄	2個
型に塗るマーガリン	適量

①大きめのボールに薄力粉とコンスターチの材料をふるい、上白糖を入れ均一になるまで良く混ぜる。

②全卵と卵黄を①に軽く混ぜ、溶かしバターと、ラム酒も①に混ぜ、粉っぽさがなくなるまで混ぜる。

③鍋に牛乳とバニラエッセンスを入れヘラで膜ができないようにしっかり混ぜる。60度位が理想的。指を2、3秒入れていられる位。

④一気に③を②に流し込み、生地が均一に滑らかになるまで混ぜる。

⑤④にラップをし、12時間〜1日冷蔵庫で休ませる。(長い方が中がモチモチになって美味しい。)

⑥オーブンを220度に予熱する。⑤を再度しっかり混ぜる。

⑦型にマーガリンを塗り、⑤を型へ均等に入れ、上段220度で20分、下段180度で45分焼く。(表面の焼き目が足りなかったら、更に5分下段180度で焼くと良い。)

⑧オーブンから出したら、すぐ型から抜く。 できあがり！！

皆さんも色々なラム酒で試してみて下さい。

Since I have an interest in food culture from around the world, I enjoy challenging myself by attempting to make various dishes as well as seeking out restaurants that are similarly oriented. Among the confections I have come across, my favorite is the French canelé. Traditionally known as "cannelé de Bordeaux,” it is an exquisite dessert made with rum that features a crisp outer surface yet maintains a soft, creamy center.

As a contributor to Dram Craft and lover of sweet treats, I decided it would be fun to base one of our comparative Dram Matches in dessert form! Therefore, two rums were chosen from two different small producers, each of which displayed different characteristics. They are as follows:

1. CEDAR RIDGE DARK RUM – Produced by the Iowa distillery and aged in charred oak barrels. This unspiced rum is very sweet with a floral aroma. An easy sipper with pleasant, yet slightly disinterested finish.

2. THE 11 WELLS’ MAELSTROM RUM – St.Paul, Minnesota distilled spirit made from imported dehydrated sugar cane juice. This is an unaged and unspiced rum that actually has a bite and aggressiveness that reminds me of gin and I am tempted to make some variation of a gin and tonic, perhaps with a splash of cranberry syrup. Finish is long and as if standing in a wild grassland.

Other than the rum, all other ingredients were kept the same. In order to answer the question, “does the difference in rum make much of a difference in taste of the canelé,” I recently surveyed a dinner party of eight guests following a hearty meal. Everyone overwhelmingly selected the THE 11 WELLS-made canelé. However, as this result was so slanted, I realized my mistake! Since the process of making these desserts takes two days, I had to prepare these batches in two shifts. Therefore the CEDAR RIDGE canelés had an extra day sitting out and were no match for the fresh 11 WELLS canelés made the day of the party.

So, I have to give the unofficial nod to 11 WELLS, though, in all fairness and much to my dismay, this was far from an equal competition. So, I had to try again and on a much smaller scale of tasters (me and Paul Owen), we personally preferred the CEDAR RIDGE Dark Rum-made canelé.

Take that for what it's worth, as both were delicious desserts I’d love for you to try at home, so I leave you my recipe:

Cannelé de Bordeaux (makes 12):

Ingredient	Amount
Wheat Flour	80 g
Corn Starch	40 g
White Sugar	250 g
Milk	500 cc
Vanilla Extract	A dash
Butter	20 g
Rum	50 g
Whole Egg	2
Egg Yolk	2
Margarine	Just enough

Batter:　In a large mixing bowl, mix evenly together the wheat flour, corn starch and white sugar.

Next, add both the whole eggs and egg yolks lightly mixing into the batter followed by the melted butter and rum until batter is smooth and no granular clumps remain.

In a separate small pot, mix in the milk and vanilla extract with the spatula so that no film remains while heating the mixture to 140 degrees.

As soon as this is ready, immediately pour quickly the milk and vanilla extract into the bowl containing the batter and mix in completely.

At this point, wrap the batter and refrigerate for 12-24 hours (the longer you refrigerate, the softer the inside of the canelé will be).

Baking:　Preheat oven to 430 degrees. Take the batter out from the refrigerator and once again mix thoroughly.

Grease the canelé vessels with a layer of margarine and pour evenly into each space. Place into the oven on the top rack for twenty minutes. Following this, move the canelé to the low rack and bake for an additional 45 minutes at 355 degrees. If after baking, the surface of the canelé is not yet dark brown, continue to bake on the low rack until achieving desired results.

After removing from the oven, extract the canelé from their molds and enjoy!!

I hope you all have fun experimenting with various types of rums!!

Dram Match #6 Fusion Battle! 第六のドラム・マッチ：フュージョンバトル

Mars Maltage 8 yr
vs.
Amrut Fusion

ポールのマルス・Paul Owen's Mars

香： 昆布、セロハンテープ、大根、泥沼、塩水、ヌガー、微かな硫黄（ボトル腐っているかな？？）

味：　心地よい微かなピート、その後に昆布の香、ボートを漕ぐ時の櫂、紅茶。

余韻：　早く崩れるが、泥沼が残る。

Nose:　Konbu seaweed, scotch tape, Japanese radish, bog, brine, nouget, pinch of sulfur (bottle tainted??)

Palate:　Pleasant small peat blast, seaweed in the background, boat oar, black tea.

Finish: Falls apart fairly quick, some lingering bogginess.

Trout Slap's Mars・鮎パンチのマルス

香：　爽やか、レーズン、微かなピートの苔、煙臭くない、果実が白いフルーツ、蜂蜜、ミネラルが少ない。

味：　軽い、まろやかなオークと杉、とても微かなピートの味、クリーン。

余韻：　スムーズだが軽い、アルコールがすぐに消える。

Nose:　Clean, raisin, very light peat moss, but not very smoky, white fruit, raw honey, low mineral.

Palate:　Light, soft oak and cedar, very light peat flavor, clean.

Finish:　Smooth, but light, alcohol dissipates quickly.

　　ポールのアムラット・Paul Owen's Amrut

香：　ウッドと漆、トロピカルフルーツ、ガム、ジャックフルーツ, さとうきび糖、イチゴのジャム。

味：　口の中に含むと強くパンチのある味がする、シナモンスティック、フルーツが入っていた段ボール、タバコの紙、ドリアン。

余韻：　結構長く続き、ずっと同じトロピカルフルーツの味がする。

Nose:　Wood with varnish, tropical fruit, bubble gum, that signature Amrut jackfruit note, cane sugar, strawberry jam.

Palate: Hot fruit blast, cinnamon sticks, fruity cardboard, tobacco paper, durian.

Finish:　Quite long, remaining tropical fruits the whole way.

　Trout Slap's Amrut・鮎パンチのアムラット

香：　花、甘い、さとうきび糖、キャラメル、柑橘系。

味：　ミネラル。

余韻：　スムーズで余韻がちょうどいい。

Nose:　Floral, sweet, cane sugar, caramel, citrus.

Palate:　Minerals.

Finish: Smooth finish, nice length.

　Paul Owen　ポール　　 　　　　　　　　　　　　結果　VERDICT 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　 　Trout Slap　鮎パンチ　　　　

Crafty Inquiries

Here at Dram Craft, our namesake denotes emphasis on two things. One of them is beyond the need for any interpretation as quite simply a “Dram” is a small amount of liquid. Ideally, this will be an alcoholic beverage enjoyed in good mood and with good company. However, "Craft", has a somewhat more ambiguous status, especially in the context of a fully blossomed "craft brewing" scene in the US and nascent "craft distilling" boom that we are currently enjoying around the world. In a previous post, I mentioned that, in the legal sense, the term often only connotes size; the amount of alcohol produced by a given manufacturer in one year. However, one need only glance through a recent whisky magazine (see below) to see that the marketing powers-that-be recognize the accessory romances the term evokes.

Therefore, I'd like to highlight some individuals who can provide some insight into their concept of "craft" and how they practice it in either their work or leisure. The first installment in these “Crafty Inquiries” is from philosopher / motorcycle mechanic, Matthew B. Crawford and his book Shop Class As Soulcraft.

My first encounter with this book was when I was living in Japan putting together occasional motorcycle tours traversing the passes of the "Kita Arupus," or Northern Alps in central Japan. Coincidentally I was also at a time in my life when the choices that would lead to my professional life seemed to be at a critical juncture and I was, at times, preoccupied with the spectre of making regrettable decisions. Additionally, this book was published shortly after the 2008 global financial crisis, and the climate of lost confidence in prestigious institutions was acutely felt by many people. From politics to business, to banks and education, there was, and still is, a reflexive inquiry concerning what we value as a society and what kind of life we want to live that embodies those values.

Mr. Crawford's contribution to this discussion is as an advocate for work with one's hands in the manual trades. He asserts there is inherent value in manual competence as it leads to the satisfaction of being useful and exercising individual agency, serving a population of which one is a part. He makes persuasive arguments concerning the separation of thinking from doing, the critique of knowledge work and management usurping traditional craft knowledge, the intellectual rigor of manual work and tacit knowledge as having an advantage over theoretical knowledge because it can solve real world problems. His ideas are provocative and will likely resonate with a great number of people which is why I do highly recommend the content of this book. Unfortunately, the academic prose-inspired writing of this book will undoubtedly fail to reach those most eager to hear it. (I'm thinking young and restless secondary school students with proclivities for non-academic settings). Anyway, to get to our task at hand...

While not centrally concerned with defining craftsmanship, Crawford does address it in the opening of his book. The first issue he raises is a caution for the reader. He is hesitant to use the term 'craft' because of the “mysticism that gets attached” to it.(p.5) For his purpose, he prefers to use the term “trade” and makes this distinction between the two:

1. Craft is the ideal and provides the standards of excellence. Trade is the product of that excellence extrapolated to the mass market so that a broader number of people can benefit from its satisfactions. Furthermore, craft is something done for its own sake and is inwardly focused, severed from expectation. However, a trade is outwardly focused. Its intent is to benefit a majority of the people.(p.6, paraphrased)

Later in chapter three, Crawford expounds on consumer culture and manual competence as exemplifying a dichotomy between freedom vs agency. Consumer culture values freedom from the burdens our stuff imposes and offers limitless possibility when we enter the shopping arena. However, the craftsman both masters and is ruled by the realities of limitations inherent in the materials with which he/she works. Gravity pulls, certain metals are less rigid than others, weather gnaws at wood etc. Therefore,

2. The craftsman is more possessive, tied to the present vs the consumer who is free to dream. The craftsman is independent from marketing manipulations, but more utilitarian, less prone to high hopes. The new has no impact on the craftsman, since it is adherence to his/her crafts' objective standards that are of significance. (ch. 1 and ch.3 paraphrase)

And finally, in chapter eight, derived from a discussion on Nadia Comaneci's perfect 10.0 gymnastic score at the 1976 Olympics and the focus of athletes at the highest level, he states:

3. ...skilled and active engagement: one's attention is focused on standards intrinsic to the practice, rather than external goods that may be won through the practice, typically money or recognition. (p.180-181)

So, by synthesizing these points, I will take a first crack at a working definition.

CRAFT – An inwardly focused pursuit of perfected skill and/or engagement with a material for its own sake, severed from external expectation, intrinsically bound to the limitations of the material with which the craftsman uses.

Any thoughts, additions, problems???

「クラフト」的な疑問

「ドラム・クラフト」では、二つのことを強調します。一つ目には説明があまり必要なく、「ドラム」というのは小容積の液体だということです。もちろん、理想的なのはいい雰囲気で暖かい友人とエンジョイしているお酒ですね。しかし、「クラフト」というのは、英語圏でもかなり曖昧な言葉です。日本では、外来語として使われていると思いますが何か小さな作られたものを意味しています。英語圏では、もっと芸術的な意味もしているし、しばしば「make」、「作る」と同じく動詞として使われています。以前のポストで書いたのは、法律からみると「クラフト蒸溜」や「クラフト醸造」などは、年にどのぐらいの容積を作っているかと関わっている事を意味します。しかし、現在の人気なウイスキー雑誌を見ると広告会社たちももっと深い意味を持っていると知っているのです。

したがって、ここで何人かの仕事や興味のある「クラフト」に関する概念や感想などを紹介したいと思います。第一回目は哲学者・バイクのメカニック、クロファード・マッシューと彼の2009年に出版されたShop Class As Soulcraftです。

最初にこの本と出合った時に私は日本に住んでいて、たびたび北アルプスを回るバイクツアーをしていました。同時に自分のキャリアに関する重要な選択もしなければいかなかった時期でした。他の若者と同じく後悔しないように日々生活したかったからです。その上、この本は2008年金融危機の直後に出版されて、今までの名誉な機関には尊敬を損する気候が深刻に感じられました。政治からビジネスまで、銀行から教育まで、社会人としての価値観や生き方についての反射的な疑問があって、それはまだ続いています。

クロファードがこの対話に寄付したのは自分の手を使う芸術者や労働者などの仕事を主張することです。彼は手を使う能力には先天的な価値があると言っている。なぜなら、自分が住んでいる地元の社会の中で、自分は役に立つことと、個人エージェンシーをやる満足があるからです。彼は、やることから考えることを区別すること、現在の営業が伝統的な知識を奪ったこと、手を使う芸術者は実はその技術を身に着けるために時間も頭脳も体も使っている上級レベルなこと、理論的な知識よりも現場でその目で確認し経験を通して学び身に着けることが毎日誰かが直面する問題を解く力があるのであると説明しています。クロファードの議論は時に挑戦的であり、多くの人々は理解することができると思うのでこの本の内容をお勧めします。残念ながら、彼が使った学問的な書き方のせいで一番受け入れるべき読者までメッセッジが届かないと思います。兎に角、私たちは大事な仕事があります。。。

この本は「クラフト」という概念を中心にしていないのにクロファードはあるところでいくつかのポイントを伝えます。最初のことは「注意」である。この本の目的のために「クラフト」よりも「トレード、trade」の方が適当と書いてあります。なぜなら、「クラフト」と付いている神秘的な概念を避けたかったからです。この二つの言葉を区別するために、次のことを言う：

1.「クラフトというのは理想である、あるものや行動の優れる基準である。「トレード」というのは、その基準から作られる商品や満足性を皆に広げる意味である。さらに、「クラフト」というのは、自分のためにできているので外の期待にかかわらずに内向いていることも意味しています。逆に「トレード」というのは、過半数の人々を助けるために外向いていることである。(p.6, パラフレーズ)

また、第三章では、現在の消費文化と手を使う能力との二分法は自由性と個人エージェンシーとの衝突も意味しています。現在の消費文化は自分が持っているものの足手まといから離れることを価値して、買い物をすると限界がなく可能性も提供しています。しかし、手を使う芸術者は材料の先天的な限界に抑制されつつ、その材料をマスターします。例として、重力が引っ張っているし、ある金属は他の金属より柔らかいし、天気でウッドが腐るなど。だから、

2. 手を使う芸術者は現実に目の前のやらなければいけない事を考え、消費者は自由に夢を見ることができる。手を使う芸術者はマーケティングによる左右に振り回されることなく、高い希望を持つ必要がない。自分のクラフトの客観的な基準に従うことを優先するから、新しいものは手を使う芸術者に影響えお与えない。 （第一章と第三章のパラフレーズ）

そして最後に、第八章では、1976年の五輪で10.0点の体操演技を行ったナディア・コマネチの話からクロファードは次のことを言う：

3. 熟練である活動的な集中すること：外側にあるお金やまわりの人々が承認してくれる賞ではなく、手を使う芸術者は芸に先天的な基準を中心にしている。(p.180-181)

結局、上記のポイントを考えると下書きのような定義を書きます。

「クラフト」－外側にある期待や尊敬される事から離れて、材料の限界まで良い物を作ろうと自分のために能力や材料を使う行動を磨く内向く探求である。

何かご感想やご問題はありますか？

Dram Match #5 第5のドラム・マッチ

　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　An Iowa bourbon only Dram Match!　　　　　 アイオワ州だけのドラム・マッチです！

Mississippi Distillery's Cody Road
vs.
Cedar Ridge Iowa Bourbon

ポールのコーディーロード・Paul Owen's Cody Road

香： マジックペン、焦がしてあるナッツ、タフィー、シナモントースト、切ったばかりの芝生、アスパラガス、ジェムソンNAS。

味：　キャラメル、ナッツ、ミント、植物性、薬用植物、スペインカンゾウ。

余韻：　中、ドライ、微かに痛みがある。

Nose:　Sharpie Marker, roasted nuts, taffy, cinnamon toast, freshly cut grass, asparagus, Jameson NAS

Palate:　Caramel, nutty, mint, botanical, medicinal, licorice root tea.

Finish: Medium, dry with a bite.

クローバーのコーディーロード・Clover's Cody Road

香：　スパイシー、ジンジャー、オレンジ、甘い、メープルシロップ。

味：　葉巻きの紙のにおい、バーベキュの時に作るスモークのにおいと同じ味。

余韻：　アルコールの味がなくなる→蜂蜜、水あめの味、マーマレード（ジャム）。

Nose:　Spicy ginger, orange, sweet, maple syrup.

Palate:　Cigar box, BBQ smoked sauce.

Finish:　Alcohol strength fades→honey, mizuame, marmalade.

　　ポールのシィーダーリッジ・Paul Owen's Cedar Ridge

香：　マジックマーカー、マルチ、オレンジピール、ホコリだらけの牧舎、ヨード、乾燥している木、柑橘、加水すると花の香。

味：軽くて柑橘系、ドライ、ハイウエストのようなオレンジのアイスキャンディーのステッキ。　

余韻：中→早い、非常にドライ。

Nose:　Magic Marker, mulch, orange peel, dusty barn, iodine, dry wood, citrus, floral with water. 　　

Palate: Light with sweet citrus notes, dry, same orange popcicle stick like the High West Double Rye.　

Finish:　Medium to short, very dry.　

　クローバーのシィーダーリッジ・Clover's Cedar Ridge

香：　薄いオレンジの香、やさしい、みかん畑の香、野原の芝の上に寝ころがった時のにおい、ペンキ、シンナー（マジックペン）。

味：　味も薄い、ライターに入れるオイル、味よりアルコールのにおいの方が強い。

余韻：　味が薄くなっていくのがとても速いが薄くなったまま口の中に残っている。ブルーチーズのにおい（薄い）、蜂蜜。

Nose:　Light, soft orange flavor, madarin orange farm, paint, magic marker.

Palate:　Light flavor, lighter fluid, alcohol taste comes through very strongly.

Finish:　Dissipation of flavor happens very quickly and a honey / blue cheese taste lingers.　

クローバー Clover　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　結果　VERDICT 　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　　ポール Paul Owen